The pink underdog

July 07, 2014 08:42 pm | Updated July 11, 2014 05:49 pm IST - chennai:

Enjoying a wine is a sensory experience and even the colour is important. While aged reds can afford this aspect, nothing can beat a rosé at being visually the most appealing hue of desire. It sets the mood even before being poured.

Enjoying a wine is a sensory experience and even the colour is important. While aged reds can afford this aspect, nothing can beat a rosé at being visually the most appealing hue of desire. It sets the mood even before being poured.

No matter how much of a hipster you may be, chances are even you scoff at the idea of rosé being a serious wine. Isn’t it accepted wisdom that reds are the real reserve of the wine world? And that every now and then a little white comes along that shows some complexity and ageing potential, making it a great way to keep things varied? And all this while rosés are to be compiled under one giant general category: ‘fun-drinking.’

The very idea that we can think of a wine colour (let alone a wine style) as non-serious shows just how boring we are in our general approach to wines, classifying them using words like ‘serious’ and other poncey adjectives that mean nothing and convey even less.But not just us, the world over, rosé wines are always awarded a lesser status.

They are never considered as much of a wine as red or white versions; even sparkling wines are given more credit. Rosé then gets relegated to something that is never as important as “real wine” and only slightly more respectable than beer. No, not craft beer, that’s still more hallowed.

But here are a few things that a rosé can do which you wouldn’t get from whites and reds.

Mood: Enjoying a wine is a sensory experience and even the colour is important. Nothing can beat a rosé at being visually the most appealing hue of desire. It sets the mood even before being poured.

Variations: One reason why people avoid rosés is because they are not sure what to expect. California makes them slightly sweet and fizzy, France makes them dry and crisp. Other places make them meaty and creamy. And yet they all look more or less pink.

The fear stems from ambiguity which then leads to avoidance. I can’t really resolve that but I can suggest this point of view: rosés can offer so much range of styles, which we should embrace, trying as many as we can before zeroing in on the style we prefer.

I like the sweet fizzy stuff for aperitif drinking or in cocktails, the crisp Provence style with seafood, and creamier versions from hotter climes with curries.

To pick up on that last point, most rosé wines are about fruit and freshness. As such, they are a great match to spice, as in they appease it without dominating the pairing or being overwhelmed by it. When looking to pair a dish that has an enhanced sense of flavour (something spicy, grilled, or with a rich sauce) what we need is a wine that is subtle yet firm. Oak isn’t always the greatest match and nor is something too steely and austere like a crisp white.

Seeing how much I am praising rosé I must add that sparkling wines are also known to pair well with food so if we were to combine the two, we’d end up with one formidable wine for all sorts of meals. I give you, Rosé Champagne, (Billecart-Salmon, Ruinart, and Laurent Perrier are top favourites) but in case that’s not available (or entirely affordable) any pink bubbly will do fine. While we are on it, here are my preferred Indian rosé wines: Vallonne, York Zampa, and Fratelli for the luscious yet dry styles. For something fruity and just a hint sweeter, go for Sula.

I don’t know if this was convincing enough a scribble; it shouldn’t really be, for I’d rather you try one and decide for yourself. You may choose to adopt it or discard it, just as long as you remember to reward it just a teensy-weensy little bit more attention than we so far have been used to. It could, after all, be a fashion force waiting its turn in the wings.

If this helps reinforce the point: remember the rosé wine that Brangelina made on their property in South of France sold out within minutes of being launched.

Magandeep Singh is India's first sommelier, food, wine and travel writer and TV show host. His passions include studying languages and choking the saxophone. In his free time he works.

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